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Leila Nercessian

"I was raised amid rocks. I always had an enormous fascination for them. My grandfather, Paulo Nercessian, was an Armenian immigrant and he began to work as a crystal prospector in Cristalina, in the central-eastern State of Goias. After a short period of time his undertaking grew considerably and he began buying mines. My father, Levon Nercessian, joined him and dedicated himself to the more adventurous side of the business, the work of exploration. My father was a kind of Brazilian Indiana Jones. Each mine is like a lottery; one never knows what will be discovered.

"My father was considered among the great connoisseurs of stones in the world. He discovered and collected many of the rare pieces that are now in the museums of the United States and Germany. He was one of the founders of the Brazilian Institute of Gems and Metals (IBGM), created in 1977 in hopes of regulating this sector.

"At first I found it hard to work with jewels. The family has worried and thought it rather daring for a woman. I began to sell stone pieces at the age of 16, after which I created some silver pieces and later I started with gold. In order to continue the family tradition, I continued selling precious stones and I dedicated myself to the design and creation of golden jewelry. Soon, I was lucky enough to establish myself professionally through my own efforts. I am also affiliated to the Jewelry Association of Rio de Janeiro, and the IBGM or the Brazilian Institute of Gems and Metals.

"It is fascinating to accompany the transformation of a rough stone into a cut gem. Firstly, each stone is classified according to its potential worth. Then it is cut and separated by size and then cut again to obtain the desired form. Only until then is it ready to have the different facets cut with a diamond disc which wears the stone off. Afterward, each piece is polished with a lead and tin disc employed in a horizontal manner. Now is when a chromium oxide is used to make each facet of the stone shine. The same cutting process is used for the back. It is a craft that depends very much on the skill of the cutter."